Surf Blokes, Blokes Surfing

Автор: Finnegan William
Название: Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life
ISBN: 0143109391 ISBN-13(EAN): 9780143109396
Издательство: Random House (USA)
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Цена: 11650.00 T
Наличие на складе: Есть у поставщика Поставка под заказ.
Описание: **Winner of the 2016 Pulitzer Prize for Autobiography**

"Reading this guy on the subject of waves and water is like reading Hemingway on bullfighting; William Burroughs on controlled substances; Updike on adultery. . . . a coming-of-age story, seen through the gloss resin coat of a surfboard."--Sports Illustrated

Included in President Obama's 2016 Summer Reading List

Barbarian Days is William Finnegan's memoir of an obsession, a complex enchantment. Surfing only looks like a sport. To initiates, it is something else: a beautiful addiction, a demanding course of study, a morally dangerous pastime, a way of life.

Raised in California and Hawaii, Finnegan started surfing as a child. He has chased waves all over the world, wandering for years through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa. A bookish boy, and then an excessively adventurous young man, he went on to become a distinguished writer and war reporter. Barbarian Days takes us deep into unfamiliar worlds, some of them right under our noses--off the coasts of New York and San Francisco. It immerses the reader in the edgy camaraderie of close male friendships forged in challenging waves.

Finnegan shares stories of life in a whites-only gang in a tough school in Honolulu. He shows us a world turned upside down for kids and adults alike by the social upheavals of the 1960s. He details the intricacies of famous waves and his own apprenticeships to them. Youthful folly--he drops LSD while riding huge Honolua Bay, on Maui--is served up with rueful humor. As Finnegan's travels take him ever farther afield, he discovers the picturesque simplicity of a Samoan fishing village, dissects the sexual politics of Tongan interactions with Americans and Japanese, and navigates the Indonesian black market while nearly succumbing to malaria. Throughout, he surfs, carrying readers with him on rides of harrowing, unprecedented lucidity.

Barbarian Days is an old-school adventure story, an intellectual autobiography, a social history, a literary road movie, and an extraordinary exploration of the gradual mastering of an exacting, little-understood art.

Praise for Barbarian Days

"Without a doubt, the finest surf book I've ever read . . . But on a more fundamental level, Barbarian Days offers a clear-eyed vision of American boyhood. Like Jon Krakauer's Into the Wild, it is a sympathetic examination of what happens when literary ideas of freedom and purity take hold of a young mind and fling his body out into the far reaches of the world."--The New York Times Magazine

"Incandescent . . . I'd sooner press this book upon on a nonsurfer, in part because nothing I've read so accurately describes the feeling of being stoked or the despair of being held under. . . . But] it's also about a writer's life and, even more generally, a quester's life, more carefully observed and precisely rendered than any I've read in a long time."--Los Angeles Times

Автор: Blokes Surfing
Название: Surf Blokes
ISBN: 0368973387 ISBN-13(EAN): 9780368973383
Издательство: Неизвестно
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Цена: 31270.00 T
Наличие на складе: Невозможна поставка.
Описание: A fun look at the world of surfing presented in a fun photo journal format.

Автор: Smith Chas
Название: Cocaine + Surfing: A Sordid History of Surfing`s Greatest Love Affair
ISBN: 1644280337 ISBN-13(EAN): 9781644280331
Издательство: Неизвестно
Цена: 16550.00 T
Наличие на складе: Невозможна поставка.
Описание: From the author of Welcome to Paradise, Now Go To Hell, a finalist for the PEN Center USA Award for Nonfiction

One of Pearl Jam's Jeff Ament's Top 10 of 2018

It's no surprise that surfers like to party. The 1960-70s image, bolstered by Tom Wolfe and Big Wednesday, was one of mild outlaws--tanned boys refusing to grow up, spending their days drinking beer and smoking joints on the beach in between mindless hours in the water.

But in the 1980s, as surf brands morphed into multibillion-dollar companies, the derelict portrait began to harm business. The external surf image became Kelly Slater and Laird Hamilton, beacons of health, vitality, bravery, and clean-living.

Internally, though, surfing had moved on from booze and weed to its heart's true home, its soul's twin flame: cocaine. The rise of cocaine in American popular culture as the choice of rich, white elites was matched, then quadrupled, within surf culture. The parties got wilder, the nights stretched longer, the stories became more ridiculously unbelievable. And there has been no stopping, no dip in passion.

It is a forbidden love, and few, if any, outside the surf world know about this particular rhapsody. Drug use is kept very well-hidden, even from insiders, but evidence of its psychosis rears its head from time to time in the form of overdoses, bar fights, surf contests, murders, and cover-ups.

Cocaine + Surfing draws back the curtain on a hopped-up, sometimes-sexy, sometimes-deadly relationship and uses cocaine as the vehicle to expose and explain the utterly absurd surf industry to outsiders.

Автор: Heimann Jim
Название: Taschen 365, Day-By-Day. Surfing
ISBN: 3836546183 ISBN-13(EAN): 9783836546188
Издательство: Taschen
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Цена: 18210.00 T
Наличие на складе: Невозможна поставка.
Описание: Bring a little thrill to your every morning. With TASCHEN s 365 Day-by-Day Surfing, discover with each new date a new vintage photograph or art work that will have you waxing nostalgic for bygone beach vibes. Accompanying quotes from the heart of surf culture will be sure to lift your mind, and your spirits, beyond your desktop. At the end of the year, simply turn back to the beginning, and keep the adventurer in you alive!

Автор: Bleakley Sam
Название: Mindfulness and Surfing
ISBN: 1782403299 ISBN-13(EAN): 9781782403296
Издательство: Quarto
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Цена: 12570.00 T
Наличие на складе: Есть у поставщика Поставка под заказ.
Описание: Mindfulness and Surfing casts a fresh perspective on this popular sport, and explores how riding the waves can be the ultimate meditation. Through lunar cycles and river surfing to the Taoism of nature, this book reveals an acute awareness of what the oceans can tell us about our place in the natural world.