Fashion and Orientalism: Dress, Textiles and Culture from the 17th to the 21st Century, Adam Geczy
Автор: Godtsenhoven Karen Van, Arzalluz Miren, Debo Kaat Название: Fashion Game Changers: Reinventing the 20th-Century Silhouette ISBN: 135006534X ISBN-13(EAN): 9781350065345 Издательство: Bloomsbury Academic Рейтинг: Цена: 21110.00 T Наличие на складе: Есть у поставщика Поставка под заказ. Описание:
Fashion Game Changers traces radical innovations in Western fashion design from the beginning of the 20th century to the present.
Challenging the traditional silhouettes of their day, fashion designers such as Madeleine Vionnet and Crist bal Balenciaga began to liberate the female body from the close-fitting hourglass forms which dominated European and American fashion, instead enveloping bodies in more autonomous garments which often took inspiration from beyond the West. As the century progressed, new generations of avant-garde designers from Rei Kawakubo to Martin Margiela further developed the ideas instigated by their predecessors to defy established notions of femininity in dress, creating space between body and garment. This way, a new relationship between body and dress emerged for the 21st century.
With over 200 images and commentaries from an international range of leading fashion curators and historians, this beautifully illustrated book showcases some of the most revolutionary silhouettes and innovative designs of over 100 years of fashion.
Fashion reveals not only who we are, but whom we aspire to be. From 1775 to 1925, artists in Europe were especially attuned to the gaps between appearance and reality, participating in and often critiquing the making of the self and the image. Reading their portrayals of modern life with an eye to fashion and dress reveals a world of complex calculations and subtle signals.
Fashion in European Art explores the significance of historical dress over this period of upheaval, as well as the lived experience of dress and its representation. Drawing on visual sources that extend from paintings and photographs to fashion plates, caricatures and advertisements, the expert contributors consider how artists and their sitters engaged with the fashion and culture of their times. They explore the politics of dress, its inspirations and the reactions it provoked, as well as the many meanings of fashion in European art, revealing its importance in understanding modernity itself.
Автор: Lisa Hodgkins Название: Everyday Fashion in Found Photographs: American Women of the Late 19th Century ISBN: 1350249858 ISBN-13(EAN): 9781350249851 Издательство: Bloomsbury Academic Рейтинг: Цена: 95040.00 T Наличие на складе: Нет в наличии. Описание: In the last half of the 19th century, the women of America were beginning to develop their own sense of style. Although influenced by European fashions and the social and economic changes of the time, they made clothing choices based upon their personal aspirations and their practical everyday needs. Providing an overview of fashion influences for each decade from the 1860s to the end of the century, Everyday Fashion in Found Photographs presents iconic garments, using sources from the period, to provide commentary and detailed description of the styles of the time. Previously unpublished vintage photographs show women across the social spectrum wearing items such as the Garibaldi shirt, the cuirass bodice, the Mother Hubbard, bicycle bloomers, and much more. Names, dates and functions of garments are examined in detail, and ties are established between social and historical contexts and the evolution of clothing styles.This illustrated book is for readers who want to identify and understand specific clothing items as well as gain insight into the mind-set of fashionable women from Victorian-era America. Dress history scholars, costume designers, curators of costume collections, social and cultural historians and those who appreciate vintage photographs can learn about elements of late 19th century women’s dress and thereby develop an understanding of what was fashionable, and why.
Автор: Kelly L. Reddy-Best, Margaret T. Ordonez Название: Conservation Concerns in Fashion Collections: Caring for Problematic Twentieth-Century Textiles, Apparel, and Accessories ISBN: 1606354280 ISBN-13(EAN): 9781606354285 Издательство: Mare Nostrum (Eurospan) Рейтинг: Цена: 29260.00 T Наличие на складе: Нет в наличии. Описание: A manual and guide for preserving unique materials in fashion such as rayon, paper, and plasticsContinuous innovation and experimentation with the materials used in constructing textiles, apparel, and accessories creates an ever-growing challenge for professional curators and collectors. Recognizing problematic fibers, dyes, finishes, and fabric and yarn constructions is crucial for maintaining objects' appearance, minimizing deterioration, and isolating those that are potentially harmful to other objects. A comprehensive guide to problematic 20th-century textiles, Conservation Concerns in Fashion Collections provides a manual for the identification, care, and damage reduction of seven different categories of objects and textiles. Robust in their research, Kelly L. Reddy-Best and Margaret Ordo?ez guide readers through the damaging properties of various materials such as adhesives and nylon fibers and provide textile-specific cleaning and storage advice. Even as they provide such details, Reddy-Best and Ordo?ez ensure that the manual is easy to navigate as an essential reference, including scores of photographs to illustrate each topic. From environmental concerns to exhibition problems, this guide stands apart for its exhaustiveness, creating a singular guide to 20th-century textile and garment queries. The authors combine information from contemporary publications and interviews of textile experts to provide readers with important information on the aging properties of and best conservation practices for unstable 20th-century apparel, accessories, and textiles. Conservation Concerns in Fashion Collections is perfect for undergraduate textile students and experienced curators alike, considering both the history and preservation of such items.
Автор: Egan, Geoff Pritchard, Frances Название: Dress accessories, c.1150-c.1450 ISBN: 1843833514 ISBN-13(EAN): 9781843833512 Издательство: Boydell & Brewer Рейтинг: Цена: 31670.00 T Наличие на складе: Есть у поставщика Поставка под заказ. Описание: Description and discussion of over two thousand brooches, rings, buckles, pendants, buttons, purses and other accessories found in archaeological digs in London, and dating from the period 1150-1450.
Автор: Deihl Nancy Название: The Hidden History of American Fashion: Rediscovering 20th-Century Women Designers ISBN: 1350104078 ISBN-13(EAN): 9781350104075 Издательство: Bloomsbury Academic Рейтинг: Цена: 21110.00 T Наличие на складе: Есть у поставщика Поставка под заказ. Описание: This book is the first in-depth exploration of the revolutionary designers who defined American fashion in its emerging years and helped build an industry with global impact, yet have been largely forgotten. Focusing on female designers, the authors reclaim a place in history for the women who created not only for celebrities and socialites, but for millions of fashion-conscious customers across the United States. From one of America’s first couturiers, Jessie Franklin Turner, to Zelda Wynn Valdes, the book captures the lost histories of the luminaries who paved the way in the world of American fashion design. This fully illustrated collection takes us from Hollywood to Broadway, from sportswear to sustainable fashion, and explores important crossovers between film, theater, and fashion. Uncovering fascinating histories of the design pioneers we should know about, the book enlarges the prevailing narrative of fashion history and will be an important reference for fashion students, historians, costume curators, and fashion enthusiasts alike.
Автор: Granata Francesca Название: Experimental Fashion ISBN: 1784533793 ISBN-13(EAN): 9781784533793 Издательство: Bloomsbury Academic Рейтинг: Цена: 21110.00 T Наличие на складе: Невозможна поставка. Описание: Shortlisted for the Millia Davenport Publication AwardExperimental Fashion traces the proliferation of the grotesque and carnivalesque within contemporary fashion and the close relation between fashion and performance art, from Lady Gaga's raw meat dress to Leigh Bowery's performance style. The book examines the designers and performance artists at the turn of the twenty-first century whose work challenges established codes of what represents the fashionable body. These innovative people, the book argues, make their challenges through dynamic strategies of parody, humour and inversion.
It explores the experimental work of modern designers such as Georgina Godley, Bernhard Willhelm, Rei Kawakubo and fashion designer, performance artist, and club figure Leigh Bowery. It also discusses the increased centrality of experimental fashion through the pop phenomenon, Lady Gaga.
Автор: Sara Hume Название: Regional Dress: Between Tradition and Modernity ISBN: 1350147982 ISBN-13(EAN): 9781350147980 Издательство: Bloomsbury Academic Рейтинг: Цена: 95040.00 T Наличие на складе: Нет в наличии. Описание: Traditional dress is a common phenomenon across much of Western Europe, often originating in elaborate practices for rural religious events. Yet despite its fundamentally local nature, traditional dress in various European regions developed along a similar trajectory, sometimes being transformed into political symbols and regional promotion for tourism, and always revealing the complexity of rural society in terms of religious divisions, class inequality and tension between the desires to protect tradition and embrace modernity. To better understand how traditional dress evolved in France and Germany from the 19th to 21st centuries, this book takes Alsace as its case study and in doing so illuminates broad experiences of modernity across rural Europe and answers overarching questions about regionalism and nationalism.
Specifically, Sara Hume unpacks why Alsatian dress was adopted as a symbol of loyalty to France despite being closer in style to German dress practices. She explores the impact of political and geographical tensions on the appearance and function of traditional clothing, for example in Alsace’s situation at the border between France and Germany and in its transformation from disputed territory into capital of a united Europe. Logically progressing chapters reveal how modernity did not drive out tradition in rural communities but rather led to processes of adaption, preservation and re-evaluation.
Through a rich variety of primary sources including costumes, illustrations, political cartoons, legal documents and oral histories, Regional Dress sheds light on the little known and rarely documented experiences of rural Europeans. Its material culture approach to the study of regionalism is essential to students of traditional and folk dress history, European history and design history.
Автор: Ferreira, Lucy Moyse Название: Danger in the path of chic ISBN: 1350126284 ISBN-13(EAN): 9781350126282 Издательство: Bloomsbury Academic Рейтинг: Цена: 95040.00 T Наличие на складе: Есть у поставщика Поставка под заказ. Описание: During the interwar years, a proliferation of violence encroached upon the glossy, idealistic world of fashion: from the curiously common appearance of dismembered heads in fashion illustration, to seemingly torturous techniques and devices advertised by beauty imagery, even extending to garments designed to look assaulted and destroyed. Danger in the Path of Chic brings this disturbing imagery to light for the first time, proposing new directions for historians of fashion, violence and culture in the interwar years.
Concentrating on London, Paris and New York as fashion centres and political allies, the volume explores why horror manifested itself in this way, at this time, and in a sphere that is usually perceived as being built on fantasy and escape. In doing so, Danger in the Path of Chic situates fashion within the very real social, psychological, economic and political traumas of the period.
Автор: Nicholas Wolters Название: Masculine Figures: Fashioning Men and the Novel in Nineteenth-Century Spain ISBN: 0826505171 ISBN-13(EAN): 9780826505170 Издательство: Mare Nostrum (Eurospan) Рейтинг: Цена: 36030.00 T Наличие на складе: Есть у поставщика Поставка под заказ. Описание: Based on years of archival research in Madrid and Barcelona, this interdisciplinary study offers a fresh approach to understanding how men visualized themselves and their place in a nation that struggled to modernize after nearly a century of civil war, colonial entanglement, and imperial loss. Masculine Figures is the first study to provide a comprehensive overview of competing models of masculinity in nineteenth-century Spain, and is particularly novel in its treatment of Catalan texts and previously unstudied evidence (e.g., department store catalogs, commercial advertisements, fashion plates, and men’s tailoring journals).
Fictional masculinity performs a symbolic role in representing and negotiating the contradictions male novelists often encountered in their attempts to professionalize not only as writers, but also as businessmen, professors, lawyers, and politicians. Through specific and recurring figures like the student, the priest, the businessman, and the heir, male novelists represent an increasingly middle-class world at odds with the values and virtues it inherited from an imperial Spanish past, and those it imported from more industrialized nations like England and France. The visual culture of the time and place marks the material turn in middle-class masculinity and sets the stage for discussions of race and sexuality.
Significant chapter sections on the used clothing trade (in the Rastro flea market in Madrid, also called “Las AmÉricas” during the nineteenth century) and the "indiano businessman" (the colonial returnee) discuss the racial implications of fashion of the period—in the first example, through the racialized discourse of contagion that hygienists used to frame the market. In the second example, the book discusses the ways the Catalan indiano “accessorizes” himself with racialized commodities like pocket watches and tobacco and objectified/infantilized figures like Black house servants and footmen.
Автор: Nicholas Wolters Название: Masculine Figures: Fashioning Men and the Novel in Nineteenth-Century Spain ISBN: 082650518X ISBN-13(EAN): 9780826505187 Издательство: Mare Nostrum (Eurospan) Рейтинг: Цена: 90550.00 T Наличие на складе: Есть у поставщика Поставка под заказ. Описание: Based on years of archival research in Madrid and Barcelona, this interdisciplinary study offers a fresh approach to understanding how men visualized themselves and their place in a nation that struggled to modernize after nearly a century of civil war, colonial entanglement, and imperial loss. Masculine Figures is the first study to provide a comprehensive overview of competing models of masculinity in nineteenth-century Spain, and is particularly novel in its treatment of Catalan texts and previously unstudied evidence (e.g., department store catalogs, commercial advertisements, fashion plates, and men’s tailoring journals).
Fictional masculinity performs a symbolic role in representing and negotiating the contradictions male novelists often encountered in their attempts to professionalize not only as writers, but also as businessmen, professors, lawyers, and politicians. Through specific and recurring figures like the student, the priest, the businessman, and the heir, male novelists represent an increasingly middle-class world at odds with the values and virtues it inherited from an imperial Spanish past, and those it imported from more industrialized nations like England and France. The visual culture of the time and place marks the material turn in middle-class masculinity and sets the stage for discussions of race and sexuality.
Significant chapter sections on the used clothing trade (in the Rastro flea market in Madrid, also called “Las AmÉricas” during the nineteenth century) and the "indiano businessman" (the colonial returnee) discuss the racial implications of fashion of the period—in the first example, through the racialized discourse of contagion that hygienists used to frame the market. In the second example, the book discusses the ways the Catalan indiano “accessorizes” himself with racialized commodities like pocket watches and tobacco and objectified/infantilized figures like Black house servants and footmen.
Автор: Lynge-jorlen, Ane Название: Niche fashion magazines ISBN: 1784531472 ISBN-13(EAN): 9781784531478 Издательство: Bloomsbury Academic Рейтинг: Цена: 126720.00 T Наличие на складе: Есть у поставщика Поставка под заказ. Описание: The inside story of the glossy fashion magazine
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